Different from the artist’s, the uniform of the creative elite is a phenomenon that remains largely unexplored. One would begin to study it, normally, from the optics of stereotyping: heat-to-toe black attires, or specific tribal markers such as the X it shoe or the Y hot label. The codes vary from city to city, giving perhaps New York reigning supreme with the most seen all-black ensembles, in all levels of complexity, while Paris boasts with its nonchalant high-and-low, intentionally put together yet appearing not to be.
In Milan, the worlds of arts, design, and fashion frequently confront, cohabit, and inform one another, a synergy enhanced by the city’s relatively intimate scale. The intersection of the fields is reflected in the attire of its creatives and imprinted on the vision of the creators that dictate the current. The result is a harmonious collision of design codes intertwined with old-school elegance as if individuals were donning their visions and professions.
Designer and collector Carolina Castiglioni has long played a dual role: embodying the archetype of the creative woman and crafting the garments that define this persona at her label, Plan C. Since its inception in 2018, the brand’s creations have been nothing short of instinctive. Castiglioni’s decade at Marni underpins the ironic yet skillful construction that distinguishes Plan C, while her personal sensibility and passion for design and the arts round out the brand’s visual identity and universe.
Castiglioni built Plan C around the principles of minimalism, a refined interpretation of workwear, innovative textiles, and artistic collaborations, creating a product that appeals to any woman with an imaginative approach to dressing. The label began as a womenswear project, “a reflection of everything I wanted to wear,” says Castiglioni, emphasizing that she herself is the central inspiration—her own muse. Yet, the brand’s feminine allure didn’t stop others from wanting to be part of this universe. Recognizing a significant gap in the market for men’s creative dressing that didn’t lean on high-end luxury labels, Plan C seized the moment to reorient internally, embracing a new opportunity that had long been anticipated by many.
For the Spring/Summer 2025 season, Castiglioni unveiled her first menswear collection. “After being asked to do it for so long, we finally decided to give it a chance,” she remarked during a preview at her atelier, ahead of the official launch at this year’s Pitti Uomo in Florence. In the collection, Castiglioni reinterpreted Plan C’s signature silhouettes, tailoring them to the male form while preserving the fluidity—in both vision and cut—that defines the label.
Going through the looks, the first visible feature is the strong emphasis on shirting throughout the collection. This ranges from hooded short-sleeve cuts to poplin pinstripe jackets, ingeniously constructed from traditional men’s shirts with spread collars. The few prints on shirts and bags—much like in many of her previous collections—hold special significance for the designer. “All prints are photographs of mine. ‘Tenda Che Vola’ is a view from my holiday house in Spain, while ‘Nella Vasca’ is a scene of my daughter’s legs in the tub, a photograph which was enhanced with painting,” explains Carolina.
For Castiglioni, workwear has always been a focal point. This is evident in traditional elements like oversized pockets on hunting jackets, crafted from fabrics that are structured yet possess a satin-like appearance. Recently introduced into the women’s collection and now debuting in the men’s line, denim is showcased in waist-cut, shirt-like jackets. Plan C’s men’s suit is meticulously tailored to the figure, offering a fit that is both intellectual and relaxed, ensuring it remains refined without being constrictive.
