For his menswear debut and sophomore womenswear collection at Moschino, Adrian Appiolaza looked for inspiration in the unique reality surrounding each individual’s world; the richness of a diverse human experience. Arriving in Milan from Buenos Aires, with stops in cosmopolitan hubs like London and Paris along the way, the designer sure learned how to carefully read archetypes, listening and observing with dexterity to understand all the components of the jungles we call our cities.

Entitled ‘Collezione 01: Lost and Found’, Appiolaza’s collection delved into the exploration of self-discovery amidst a backdrop of monotony. The concept examined the conformity of corporate culture, using the symbolic confines of the suit and tie to underscore themes of constraint yet also liberation. This dichotomy is vividly illustrated in a twin look: one exit pairs a striped poplin shirt under a cardigan with a traditional tie, while its counterpart substitutes the tie with a playful banana brooch. The same ensemble challenges convention with a “no pants” look, a sartorial metaphor for living in haste and neglecting essentials. Showing up unprepared to the world.

Appiolaza outfitted his characters to confront the realities of contemporary life,presenting a reimagined version of the “Survival” jacket from Spring-Summer 1992. Tops adorned with cascading giant paper clips and a cashmere bathrobe featuring slippers as pockets, accessorized with a sciura pearl necklace adorned with a croissant charm––all epitomize Appiolaza’s assertion that in today’s world, everyone must fend for themselves. As we journey towards the future envisioned by the designer, he encourages us to savor the path as well. The collection embraces an air of “vacanza” and Dolce Vita, featuring sequined skirts reminiscent of souvenirs adorned with motifs from Napoli, cotton pajama sets printed with sunny-side-up eggs, and a blend of silks showcasing imagery of the sea, countryside, and clear summer skies.

Suggestive and playful, yet underscored by architectural complexity, this Moschino collection melded 80s-like tailoring with a dynamic range of silhouettes. From crisp, structured fits to relaxed styles, each piece with a sense of motion and versatility. Appiolaza injected the Moschino-esque irony, typically conveyed through exuberance and exaggeration by its former designer Jeremy Scott, with a nuanced approach focused on detail. This included a pen-stained shirt with a pen placed in the pocket as part of the styling, and summery knitted tank tops stained with tomato sauce, symbolizing enjoyment, freedom, and a carefree spirit.

The accessories this season deserve special attention. Appiolaza revitalized Moschino’s leather goods with a bold offering, featuring luxurious python top-handle bags accented with paracord and springs. Suede made a statement in double-sided portfolios, showcasing camel suede on one side and buttery napa leather on the other. Iconic Moschino heart-shaped cases in burgundy kept tradition, while a standout piece was the suede duffle bag elegantly wrapped in its own belts.