At MM6 Maison Margiela, monochrome is the moment for this AW24 collection. Taking place at Le Cavallerizze, the National Museum of Science and Technology, the space provides an industrial backdrop upon which the collection can shine. As always, each piece is grounded by wearability, a key element given the brand’s status as the sister to a Maison (Margiela) so focused on experimentation.
In true MM6 style, calculated and purposeful distressing was a central aspect throughout the collection. The strategically frayed knits and raw-edged denim, silk, or wool add contrast to otherwise perfectly tailored looks. A skill which should not be disregarded lightly, considering that executing an intentionally unfinished look with such finesse is no mean feat.
The sartorial features take a distinctly boxy, oversized fit which has become somewhat of an MM6 signature over the years. From nonchalant trenches and suit jackets to sack-style tops the collection embraces fluid silhouettes that emphasise comfort and movement.
As previously stated the design team favours mostly tonal looks of black and khaki with the occasional pop of vibrant ruby, mustard, violet, or jade. These colourful infusions appear in the form of fitted turtleneck tops, or legging-like bottoms peeking out below the hem of trenches.
Whilst the majority of looks boast the aforementioned high neckline, offering full coverage from chin to ankle, they are on occasion juxtaposed by plunging V-necks or the shortest of shorts (thanks once again to Miu Miu). This interplay of extremes showcases the house’s flair for balancing modesty with audacity, wrapping the body in a variety of textures, and playing hide and seek with the skin.
Perhaps the most eye-catching though were accessories. Be it the sturdy practicality of the Doc Marten-esque boots or the whimsical fun of funky faces constructed from googly eyes and safety pins, the collection offers a diverse range of ornamentation. The likes of key charm earrings and arm cuffs spark imaginative ideas of DIY projects one could create in anticipation of the release of this collection. Although it would perhaps be better to save the DIY work and utilise the collection’s lab-worthy glasses as protection!
Bags too added interest, sometimes carried alone, sometimes in pairs – because more is more when it comes to accessories. Either structured and angular, in alignment with the style of the collection, or otherwise puffy and pillow-like providing contrast.
And speaking of pillows, MM6 dedicated an accessory perfect for those rushed off their feet travelling from city to city during the fashion week period with a chic neck pillow and bag in matching leather. Ensuring that even amongst the whirlwind of shows and appointments, one can remain style-savvy. With a nod to the industrial and a wink to the whimsical, MM6 reaffirms its position as a purveyor of contemporary classics that are as creative as they are wearable.
This AW24 season marks the debut of Adrian Appiolaza at the House of Moschino with his “Collezione 0.” Appiolaza was appointed to the position a mere month ago, after the unfortunate passing of his predecessor, Davide Renne, making the already challenging task of taking the helm of a brand that bit more daunting. Nonetheless, the designer rises to the occasion, offering a show not of the extravagant extremes one had become so accustomed to during Jeremy Scott’s tenure, but instead that focuses on the joy and wit instilled by the house’s founder, Franco Moschino.
There are, of course, the traditional trompe l’oeil, a signature of Franco Moschino himself. Hats that once the head is turned appear to only cover half the head, bags that imitate pastries, and playful prints emulating suspenders and ties on skirts, shirts, and dresses brought otherwise simple if not excellently tailored, pieces to life.
The collection has a distinctly retro feel to it, although one cannot quite pinpoint the exact era. Be it, 20s flapper dresses, 40s style headscarves, or 50s style costume pearls each piece is designed with a timeless nonchalance which, leaving one to question from what epoch these models have emerged from onto the runway.
It is clear that Appiolaza has done his homework on what makes Moschino uniquely Moschino, particularly in regard to its defining motifs: the question mark a symbol of the brand’s ethos to challenge industry norms, the red heart central to the brand’s passion and love for its craft, and the yellow smiley conveying an irrepressible sense of joy and a playful approach to design. These elements are more than mere icons; they are a visual language that defines the brand’s philosophy of whimsical nonconformity and its penchant for blending satire with bold aesthetics.
As the collection develops the designer leaves no room for debate on one glaringly obvious fact. Moschino is indeed Italian. From the more subtle “Ciao” pins and brooches to the stylised Italian tricolour top Appiolaza made clear his and the house’s roots.
This inaugural collection for Moschino is steeped in the brand’s playful heritage. Between the sartorial nods to historical fashion and the integration of Moschino’s quintessential symbols, Appiolaza crafts a narrative that is both a tribute and a forward stride.
A title like “Toys For Adult” may suggest to you that this AW24, GCDS is all about fun. But take a closer look, and not all is as it seems. Against the backdrop of a live piano score, performed by Joseph Schiano di Lombo, Giuliano Calza proclaims that fun is not only for kids as he delivers a series of playful, yet somewhat unsettling looks.
“Hi, I’m Chucky and I’m your friend till the end”, speaks and seemingly innocent voice into the darkness. The vocals are familiar to those well versed in cult classic cinematic horror, as killer doll Chucky, originally from Universal Pictures 1988 film Child’s Play. Setting the eerie undertone for this collection.
The opening of the collection lures one into a sort of false sense of security, pure, white looks reveal a sense of simplicity and innocence. Sheer fabrics expose the body in its true form but are shortly followed by a padded wedding-like dress as a nod to the progression from childhood to womanhood.
But this naivety does not last long, as Calza makes way for darker themes and tones. The palette shifts, first to black but then progressively into bloody hues for red and burgundy. The garments now act as a shield, protecting the wearer from the horrors of modern-day life with structured jackets and sumptuous faux furs.
Whilst the motifs throughout the collection appear child-like on the surface, make no mistake their use is strictly for adults. A Hello Kitty bralette or lifesize Polly Pocket® heart bag are testament to a grownup’s desire for fun, which may no longer be satiated through conventional toys but instead through the playfulness of fashion.
Morbid motifs weave their way through the collection, subtly punctuating the narrative with a sense of the macabre. The Morso shoe, with its jaw-shaped heels, emerges as a quintessential emblem of this theme. And beyond the sinister charm of Chucky and his notorious instruments, the designer ventures further into the pantheon of horror icons, evoking the timeless allure of Dracula with a striking bejewelled bodice dress that shimmers with dark elegance.
Of course, we cannot conclude without mention of Carine Roitfeld, who styles the collection with a sophisticated edge. This partnership underscores the collection’s unique position at the intersection of luxury and playfulness, where each garment becomes a narrative piece, telling stories through meticulously crafted details and bold silhouettes.
