In this day and age, it seems increasingly rare for a designer to enjoy a prolonged tenure at the helm of a single fashion house. However, last night Nicolas Ghesquière proved himself an exception to this rule by marking a monumental ten years as the Creative Director of Louis Vuitton’s womenswear.
Admittedly, I’m not quite old enough to remember Ghesquière’s debut for Vuitton with any sense of firsthand sentimentality, having been only fourteen at the time. But of course, in my formative years as a fashion student, I did my due diligence and have viewed the AW14 collection at least once or twice.
Ten years on, Ghesquière returned to the Louvre to prove that he still has plenty of refreshing ideas for us. From dresses with feathered fringe detailing to sleek metallic numbers and structured tailoring, the French designer showcased his range impeccably. And, of course, the collection wouldn’t be complete without those sport-chic aspects we’ve come to know and love. There were also plenty of leathers and furs scattered throughout, another signature of Ghesquière’s designs.
Of course, at Vuitton, accessories played as important a role as ever. Bags included classics like the Alma and Petite Malle, as well as novel additions such as a monogram egg bag, a soft, slouchy edition of the Petite Malle, and an octagonal beauty case with an LV clasp. There were also sculptural boots and shoes, plush fur wrist accents, and a plethora of square-top beanies, each adding a touch of futuristic chic.
Naturally, the collection contained a number of self-reflective moments, though these were more subtle references than direct copies. Ghesquière has, after all, always been an innovator. Even a decade on, last night’s show had a freshness to it rather than the weighty nostalgia that so many designers seem to favour nowadays.