Fashion holds a long record of history, yet its system possesses a short, ever-progressing memory that allows references and events to be easily picked up, massified, and just as remembered, rapidly forgotten. Less than a decade ago the light spirit (and textiles) of Boho style permeated the streets and the runway, and last week in Paris at Chemena Kamali’s debut collection for Chloé, it was like being transported, with wiser, less innocent eyes, to that era.

 

Kamali took a bow after her debut show at Chloé, hair down, outfitted in high-waist flared jeans and an airy blouse. Gold jewelry hung from her extremities, sparking a glare as she blew air kisses to an enthusiastic, congratulating audience. The easiness of her attire and persona mirrored a collection that showed how well Kamali knows the intricacies and architectures of a Chloé Girl; she might as well be the epitome of one.

 

The driving elements of Kamali’s vision for Chloé were deployed as early as the first exit. The ruffled maxi sleeves of a mini dress made a striking appearance in the opening look as they swept the floor. A black leather capelet was topped and locked at the collar by a necklace of cascading golden medals. Pink gradient sunnies and studded ballerinas joined the ensemble. Eclecticism and supercharged femininity were at the center of it all, and if that didn’t give away who Kamali’s Chloé Girl is, the imprint is also available in the following 52 looks.

 

Kamali played the baton-passing game smartly, treating the collection with the much-desired lightness of a mandate transition. This was conveyed through all the lace work, which came re-embroidered and in the form of a daring jumpsuit, see-through slip dresses, or a tied-up bolero top. Heritage-inspired pieces included a revision of Karl Lagerfeld’s Musketeers’ collection, visible via all the cape work. Sturdier coats, handbags, and footwear granted Kamali’s delivery the shelf-ready element that is expected of designers playing in the business, yet with this collection, Chloé executives will only have to worry about fulfilling demand.