Atop the runway, a vast canvas of black and white stripes, Missoni declared they were “one of the stripes” this AW24. The show’s opening monologue served as a poetic preamble to the collection’s ethos: a world without borders, a dream-like state where imagination and foresight lead to the creation of new landscapes. This narrative of limitless exploration and the embrace of the ‘stripes’ as a unifying element is woven throughout the collection, setting the tone for the exploration and blurring of boundaries.
The visual impact of the first looks, perfectly aligned with the striped runway, immediately immersed the audience in creative director Filippo Grazioli’s dream. The collection plays with stripes in various orientations, sizes, and widths, creating a dynamic visual rhythm. This motif is complemented by plush woolly textures, adding a tactile depth that contrasts with these crisp lines.
The mastery of silhouette and texture is evident in the juxtaposition of sleek, tailored jackets against the softness of the chunky knits, creating an interplay of form and function. Biker shorts layered over striped tights challenge conventional proportions, while sparkly tassels add a playful, jellyfish-like movement under dresses.
The headwear, reminiscent of swimcapcore – so called by a recent Highsnobiety trend piece – adds a sleek, streamlined silhouette that echoes the collection’s interplay between snug and expansive forms.
The palette, aside from the aforementioned black and white which served as a visual anchor, was dominated by bright blues and pinks adding additional visual interest. Although it could be argued the stripes alone provided plenty for the eyes to be getting on with. The repetition of looks in varying colours underscored Missoni’s commitment to versatility and the idea that style is a personal journey of endless possibilities.
The collection invites one to consider stripes as more than a pattern and instead as a manifesto of unity, creativity, and the endless horizons of fashion.
This AW24 season Ermanno Scervino went old school, emblazoning the brand’s name at the end of the simple black catwalk. This deliberate stylistic decision has its roots embedded in the minimalist ethos of the late 1990s and early 2000s, and allows focus to be placed on the sartorial craftsmanship and narrative the brand wishes to convey.
Narrative was key here, building on the foundational principles of dress theory in particular the concept of clothes as protection and armour. The collection, in its essence, reiterates clothing’s primal function as a form of protection while simultaneously delving into its capacity as a complex expression of identity.
At its heart, Scervino’s collection balances an intricate interplay between sculptural delicacy and hard-edged femininity. Each piece serves as a testament to the label’s mastery over form and function, navigating the delicate balance between sculptural ensembles and those with a more delicate edge. This juxtaposition not only highlights fashion’s role in self-expression but also reiterates the garment’s significance as a form of armour in the modern woman’s arsenal.
A highlight of the collection was its exploration of corsetry, reestablished as a symbol of seduction and power. Displayed in various iterations: from double wool bras paired with intarsia midi skirts to the more nuanced, nude-coloured hand-quilted versions on midi frocks, underscores the brand’s commitment to celebrating the female form in all its complexity and grace.
Fabrics too played a part in this story. Often sturdy and practical, like wool suiting reminiscent of traditional menswear, sent down the runway alongside looks of sheer organza. Once again a gesture to this balance between hard and soft aspects of womanhood. But also a nod to the designer’s adeptness at reinterpreting traditional materials with an innovative twist. This too is reflected in the crocodile-embossed leather which again serves as a metaphorical protection.
Ermanno Scervino’s latest collection emerges as a compelling chapter that dissects and redefines the concept of feminine armour. Unveiled with a premise that champions the female body as a bastion of unyielding power—housing intellect, wit, seduction, and personality—Scervino’s latest offerings encapsulate the essence of fashion as a tool of self-assertion, expertly balancing the dualities of strength and delicacy, revelation and protection.
