Drum roll please, quite literally, as the stage is set for a theatrical show of Shakespearean proportion, Antonio Marras’ AW24 collection. “Eleonora, where are you”, whispers the husky tone of the Falconer into the darkness, “be ready, Eleonora”.
The lights come up, to reveal a labyrinth of doors overgrown with shrubbery, between which this story will be told. But who is this Eleonora? Well, enter centre stage the protagonist of this drama, Eleonora D’Arborea, Sardinia’s most famed heroine. She paces regally–in a decadent coat of mismatched fabrics, metallics, zebra prints with unfinished edges, a mismatch of colourful threads–telling the story of her rule.
Both Antonio Marras and Eleonora D’Arborea were born of Sardinian origins, with the designer often making reference, through his contemporary designs, to the island’s rich culture and heirate. This season was no different with the convergence of modern and mediaeval, a tribute to the style during the rule of D’Arborea. From a series of looks in royal red, to structured bodices, and headwear evocative of a coif, wimple or veil the collection spoke of archaic styles for twenty-first century sensibilities.
The collection evolved in stages; hedonistic floral patterns turned to rich earthy tones and then to noble gold or rich red tartans and checks.The looks showcased an eclectic ensemble with oversized two pieces found alongside floor-length gowns, kilts and knitted jumpers. All rounded out by swathes of sexy black numbers made from sheer mesh or leather.
Amidst this story, leather was a key aspect, a dedication to Carmelo Tedeschi, one of the original designers at Marras’ Alghero workshop. Tedeschi was a master of leather working with it “as one works with clay or bread, with skill and passion”. The collection showcases, what are sadly, some of his final pieces which he worked upon from a sewing machine the artisan had brought to his bedroom to work with when he had the strength.
As the collection came to its conclusion, Eleonora and her Falconer took to the stage once more standing proudly in Marras’ visionary as both a historical figure and symbol of resilience, empowerment, and the enduring legacy of Sardinian culture. “Eleonor of Arborea, the Judge of the laws that saved women. The woman who made a people a nation.”
This AW24 season, Del Core speaks to a distinctly minimal taste with a contemporary edge, proving that no matter how obsessed the internet appears to be with maximalist trends there’s no escaping the talons of minimalism. Set against the classical backdrop of The Gallery Meravigli, each meticulously crafted piece speaks to a refined taste, where less is undeniably more.
Del Core captures attention through precise garment construction, creating an unmistakable sense of personality, as sleek silhouettes entwine with bold structural elements. Among the standout features are the two triangular lapels, boldly protruding from the bust of suits, gowns, and bustier tops, evoking a sense of avant-garde. Additionally, the pointed devil-horn-esque shoulders add a daring edge, contrasting sharply with the sleek silhouettes they adorn.
However, it’s not just about sharp angles and bold lines. Del Core masterfully balances these geometric structures with softer, more organic elements. Knitted jumpers with bulging sleeves, plush hoods in luxurious wool, and sheep-like tufts create an interplay of textures, infusing the collection with a sense of natural elegance.
The collection was rooted in a mostly neutral palette, heavily focused on charcoal grey and ivory, a timeless backdrop on which pops of sage, cobalt blue, and vermillion could be found. This strategic use of colour again adds depth to the visual language the designer built throughout.
Del Core also played with texture, again to create visual interest, with looks in intricate crochet alongside classic wool suiting, to sumptuous silks, chiffons, and embroidered sequins for a tactile dimension that invites closer inspection. Del Core’s AW24 collection stands as a testament to the enduring allure of minimalism in the ever-evolving fashion landscape. Inviting us to explore sleek sophistication with a modern twist.
N21 did away with archetypes and conventions for its AW24 collection, working with contradicting narratives to redefine bon ton or bourgeois chic. The aim is to focus on the sartorial excellence of 1980s haute couture without being weighed down by its customs, clichés and flaws.
The 80s inspiration threads seamlessly throughout the collection, with skimpy cocktail dresses accompanying bouclé suits, and A-line dresses. Defining both the practicality and impracticality of the era. Contradictions are a common theme throughout; Norwegian style wool sweaters are paid with sheer bodysuits and sequined skirts, or leopard print matched with tweed, embodying the season’s anarchical mood of ultra-feminine juxtaposed against masculine. An homage to the timeless freedom and experimentation fashion allows.
Although the collection aims to be “independent of whatever reference”, one cannot help but notice the continual impact of Milan’s beloved Miuccia Prada, with the influence of the, still iconic, Miu Miu mini skirt seeping its way into so many designers’ work, season after season. The whole collection has a distinctly Prada feel given its sequined slips, sheer chiffon, and short shorts that could easily be misconstrued as lingerie. And who can blame them, after all as Vanessa Freidman stated we are living in the age of “The Mrs. Prada Effect”.
The details are what bring this collection to life, be it small bows or extravagant eco-fur scarves along with the accessories to complement the theme. Bags, such as the chunky “Malibu” and the shimmering “Jeanne”, round out the collection, demonstrating a basic yet bold style that aligns with the overall vision.
In essence the collection “expressed a very conscious form of bourgeois eroticism”, a vivid reminder that true style knows no bounds and that enduring fashion statements are those that dare to redefine what is considered beautiful, elegant, or chic.
